Tuesday the 21st of May, 2024. A clear day in the outskirts of Thailands second biggest city, Chiang Mai. The mountains that surround the region is visible with the naked eye, even though the tops in the far distance is covered by clouds. Small roads full of streetfood, smoothie carts, and convenience stores nestle through the calm suburb. Dogs and cows slowly cross the road, moving at their own pace, while cars and motorbikes have to wait their turn. These are the neighborhoods and small streets that Somratsamee Chaisuya have been running through, two times a day and six times a week, for the past four years. She is calm and collected, second nature. One could perceive her as somewhat introverted, but she dictates the runs from her lead position. Through simple and subtle hand gestures she tells us when a car is approaching, avoiding oncoming traffic.
Morning run view. Picture: Mattias Leppänen.
Somratsamee, also called Som, is a 21 year old Muay Thai boxer from the mountains of Chiang Mai province. What makes Somratsamee special is that she, on the 23rd of December 2022 as a 20 year old, became the first ever women champion of Rajadamnern Stadium, Thailands oldest and most legendary Muay Thai stadium.
However, Somratsamee did not stop there. One year after her historic achievement in the flyweight division she won her second Rajadamnern Stadium title, this time in the bantamweight division, making her a two division champion. Further on, in March 2024, she successfully defended her bantamweight belt for the first time. Tonight (read Saturday 1st of June) it is time for Somratsamee to defend her belt for the second time. An incredible accomplishment from a young fighter, although not unexpected. At least if you ask Khruu Manop, the head coach and owner of Manop Gym, the gym Somratsamee has been training at for the past four years.
– Som was training at my friends gym. The first time I saw her train I thought that I could make her a champion. At that time she didn’t have the best technique but I saw she had a big heart. I was certain. After three weeks she had learned so many skills she had previously lacked.
Somratsamee during pad work. Picture: Mattias Leppänen
We are seated behind the boxing ring that is located right outside of Khruu Manops house. He sits on the railing next to the wooden front door, in jeans shorts and without a shirt. The heat is pressing. Khruu Manop has an impressive resumé, being renowned as one of the greats in the Muay Thai coaching sphere. His most well known protege being the legendary Saenchai P.K Saenchai, who by many is regarded as one of the greatest Muay Thai fighters in history. In 2018, after several years at Yokkao Training Center in Bangkok, Khruu Manop left his hometown of Bangkok and opened up his own gym in the northern outskirts of Chiang Mai. His coaching method is meticulous, focusing on even the smallest details in order to create the most technical of fighters, also known as Muay Femur.
According to Khruu Manop it is important to understand that, even with the most skillful technique, it is impossible to become a great fighter if one does not have the heart for fighting. This perfect combination, technique and heart, was something Khruu Manop saw early on in Somratsamee.
– If you have technique but not the heart to fight you can never become a champion. Som has the technique but also, and mainly, the heart. This is why I was certain she would become a champion. Now she has all the necessary skills. She is Muay Femur (technical fighter), she is Muay Khao (specialty is knees). She knows all styles of fighting.
After many years in his hometown of Bangkok, Khruu Manop moved to Chiang Mai and opened up his own gym. Picture: Mattias Leppänen
Manop Gym is located at the end of a small street, only a stones throw from the highway that leads into the city of Chiang Mai. An outdoor gym, not the biggest in size, but it has all the equipment a great Muay Thai gym needs. Above the checkered mats in black and yellow there are nine boxing bags and a boxing ring. On the edges of the ring lies boxing gloves and shin pads in different colors and from the roof hangs sweaty hand wraps.
After a morning run of around 8k, followed by skipping rope and at least 5 rounds of pad work, Somratsamee is done with the light morning session. We take a seat on the checkered mats, infront of the boxing ring and in between the boxing bags. In the background Isan music is played from the speaker, and on the other side of the ring a few of the other fighters sit to cool down and laugh after the session.
Manop Gym in the outskirts of Chiang Mai. Picture: Mattias Leppänen.
Somratsamees light smile and soft chuckle gives of a sense of calm, even though she later this week is going to defend her bantamweight belt for the second time. As earlier mentioned, the fact that Somratsamee is in this position, as a Muay Thai champion, does not come as a surprise, at least not to the ones that know her and know what she is made of, like Khruu Manop. For Somratsamee herself on the other hand, it wasn’t as obvious and certain that she would be in this position. At least not this early in her career.
– No, I didn’t really see it. I have never felt like a champion. From the beginning my main focus has simply been on improving as a fighter. Sometimes I forget that I’m actually a champion, Somratsamee says followed by a laugh.
Even when she was declared the first ever women champion of Rajadamnern Stadium in December 2022, she couldn’t fully believe it.
–Before the fight I wasn’t feeling that well, my body and my mentality wasn’t at its best. I didn’t believe in myself to the fullest but I decided that all I could do was to go out and do my best, and keep improving. Luckily, it went well.
Somratsamee herself might not feel or see herself as a champion, but her accomplishments has made waves around her.
– Now people recognize me and want to come up to me and talk. I am more recognized and known, so of course I know I am a champion. Although, as a person, I am quite introverted. I prefer to stay at home with my family and friends, as well as just being at the gym and train. I am the same person now as I was before I became a champion.
When I talk to Somratsamee it is virtually impossible to not notice how much her family means to her. Currently she lives by herself in an apartment not too far away from Manop Gym, while her mother and sister still lives in her home village in the mountains, a few hours away. She emphasizes that she, whenever she can, goes home to spend time with her family in the village where she once started training Muay Thai as a 12 year old with he support of her dad, who sadly passed away not too long after she started her training. Before she started training, there were some conflicting opinions within the family on the prospect of doing Muay Thai.
– My dad was okay with it, but my mom definitely did not want me to fight. The reason why I even took my first fight, without my mom knowing, was so that I could win money and buy myself my first phone, Somratsamee says followed by a big laugh.
– I didn’t want to ask anyone for money, I wanted to earn it for myself. That’s why I decided to go to the fight without telling my mom. But I won, got the money, and bought myself the phone.
Somratsamee in the middle with a picture of her dad, with her mom on her right side and her sister on her left. All wearing traditional Pakayo clothing. With her RWS belts. Picture: Private
Somratsamee belongs to the ethnic minority Pakayo, which is an ethnic group that originates from the Karen people. The Karen is an ethnic group that today mainly inhabit the southern and eastern parts of Myanmar as well as northern and northwestern parts of Thailand, along the Myanmar border. The Pakayo ethnic group was previously considered to be a subgroup of the Karen although today, according to the Karen Women’s Organisation, the Pakayo and other ethnic groups should be considered and treated as separate ethnic groups and not as any subgroups. Somratsamee, represents and wears her ethnicity, and her people, with pride, and she shines when talking about her background.
Muay Thai is quite common in her home village according to Somratsamee, however it is mainly the men that practice the sport.
– I actually don’t know if there has been a woman that has been training Muay Thai before me in my village. But after my first title I have seen many more women and girls wanting to train and pursue Muay Thai. Many have said that they want to become like me.
The darkness has fallen over Chiang Mai province when I start to talk with Khruu Krish. He is one of Khruu Manops coaching proteges, having been at Manop Gym for around four years, roughly the same amount of time that Somratsamee has been training at the gym.
– I did compete in Muay Thai, but only locally here. I never fought on the big stadiums in Bangkok. But I have learned everything there is about being a coach by Khruu Manop.
Khruu Krish is a large man with tattoos on his chest, arms and back. In his grey shorts and bare chest he supervises the last bit of the evenings training session, which is the art of clinch. Clinch is a very technical aspect of Muay Thai, essentially getting close to the opponent and grabbing hold of the neck while delivering piercing knees and elbows. Clinch is the best way to assert dominance’s in Muay Thai, with referees placing great value on the technique. Khruu Krish talkes about Somratsamees upcoming fight and how important the clinch game will be.
– Som is very strong in clinch. Especially when she fights a thai opponent who usually is smaller than herself. Som is big and strong, very difficult to handle in clinch.
Khruu Krish and Somratsamee have built a good relationship over the years at Manop Gym. Picture: Mattias Leppänen.
In accordance with Khruu Manop, Khruu Krish believes that Somratsamee is a special fighter.
– She is smart. She has som many different weapons and she knows exactly when to use them. Som has a very high fight-IQ.
Her coaches celebrate her, which they should based on her accomplishments and awards. At the same time my feeling is that Somratsamee herself has a hard time fully allowing herself to understand what she has already achieved at such a young age. She knows that she is a champion, but she has a hard time seeing herself as one. She is humble and down to earth, but somewhere she has been forced to realize and accept that she now is a role model, primarily to young girls and women.
– I believe that I can inspire others who come from similar backgrounds as myself to start training Muay Thai. Many young people live a long way from the big cities where most of the gyms are located, but I believe that I have shown that there is a way to become successful, even if you grow up in a small village far from the gyms.
Somratsamee sharpening her knees before her title defense. Picture: Mattias Leppänen
In the world of competitive martial arts theres usually a saying that one is not a champion until they defend their belt for the first time. Somratsamee has already done that once. Tonight she is defending it again with Khruu Manop in her corner.
– Khruu Manop has helped me a lot. I trained Muay Thai before I met him, but it was first when I started training with Khruu Manop I understood what proper technique is. I had to relearn everything. New basics, new techniques, new skills.
With focus in her eyes she shares her thoughts in regards to the upcoming fight.
– I am not particularly nervous. I have fought her before and won, and this time I have worked harder than ever before. Physically I feel good, mentally I feel good.
So how would Somratsamee describe herself as a fighter? She laughs when she hears the question.
– Today I would say that I am Muay Khao. I wasn’t before but for some reason, with time, I have started using more knees. Maybe I am a mix between Muay Femur and Muay Khao.
Later this year Somratsamee turns 22. To have accomplished what she has accomplished at such a young age is nothing short of remarkable, which she is aware of even if it still feels strange to her. Her motivation on the other hand has never been about being famous, or reach legendary status within Muay Thai, or not even winning every fight she has.
– My family is my motivation. I have to take care of my mother and my sister, they are the reason I keep fighting. After my career I want to work as a teacher back home in the mountains, and I also want to open up a gym in my village. I want to give back to my community.
Somratsamee with family. Picture: Mattias Leppänen.
Tonight (read Saturday 1st of June) Somratsamee does not only step in the ring as a champion. She does so as the first ever women champion of Rajadamnern Stadium. No matter if she successfully defends her bantamweight belt tonight, that is a title nobody can strip her of. Somratsamee Chaisuya, or as she is more known as, Somratsamee Manop Gym, is and forever will be immortalized in Muay Thai history.